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The Brewing of Tea
WHENEVER YOU HEAT TEA, take heed that it not
lies between the wind and the embers. The fire can flame out and if it
penetrates the brick, the curing operation will be uneven. When that
happens, grasp the brick and press it against the fire several times.
Then turn it upright until it is roasted. Then pull it out and bank it.
When the shape begins to hump like the back of a toad, pull it back
five inches from the fire, roll it and let it rest until it assumes its
original state. Then heat it again.
When tea is dried by fire,
you can tell by the temper of it when it has been cooked enough. When
it is sun-dried, its softness will be the test. In cases when the tea
is especially young and tender, steam it and then pound it while hot.
The buds and shoots will retain their shape but the leaves should be
pulpy. In cases in which the leaves are tough, grasp a heavy pestle and
pound the leaves until they are broken like lacquered beads or become
like brave soldiers who have received their orders not to halt and go
on until there is no strength left in them.
When the tea has
been heated until the stems are as tender as a baby's arm, store it in
a paper bag while it is still hot. If you do that, then nothing of its
original purity or nature will be dissipated. Pulverize it as soon as
it is cold. It is best to use charcoal for the fire and failing that,
faggots of a very hard wood will do. However, charcoal that has been
used before will give of f a musty, rank and greasy smell. One must
never use oily woods, worn-outs or discarded utensils as fuel.
The ancients placed great store in tea's flavor when it was brewed with firewood that had been cured for a long time.
On
the question of what water to use, I would suggest that tea made from
mountain streams is best, river water is all right, but well-water tea
is quite inferior. (The poem on tea says, when it comes to water, I bow
before the pure-flowing channels of the Min.)
Water from the
slow-flowing streams, the stone-lined pools or milk-pure springs is the
best of mountain water. Never take tea made from water that falls in
cascades, gushes from springs, rushes in a torrent or that eddies and
surges as if nature were rinsing its mouth. Over usage of all such
water to make tea will lead to illnesses of the throat.
Of the
many other streams that flow through mountain and valley, there are
those that are clear and pure but which sink into the ground and are
absorbed before finding an outlet. From the hot season to the time of
frost, the dragon may be sequestered and noxious poisons will
accumulate within them. One taste of the water will tell you if it is
all right. If the evil genius of a stream makes the water bubble like a
fresh spring, pour it out.
If you must use river water, take
only that which man has not been near; and if it is well water, then
draw a great deal before using it.
When the water is boiling, it
must look like fishes' eyes and give of f but the hint of a sound. When
at the edges it chatters like a bubbling spring and looks like pearls
innumerable strung together, it has reached the second stage. When it
leaps like breakers majestic and resounds like a swelling wave, it is
at its peak. Any more and the water will be boiled out and should not
be used.
When the boiling water is in its first stage, you may
add a measure of salt in accordance with the amount of water. You can
tell when to stop by sampling it.
During the second stage of the
boiling, draw off a ladle full of water and stir around the center of
the boil with your bamboo pincers. If you judge that it is not yet
right, lower the pincers into the center of the boil and do it with
force. I f it still leaps up making waves and splashing into a froth,
pour back some of the water you have drawn off. That will stop it from
over-boiling while encouraging its essential virtue.
Pour it
into cups so that it will come out frothy. The frothy patches are the
ornamentation to the decoction and are called mo if thin, po if thick.
When they are fine and light, they are called flowers, for they
resemble the flowers of the jujube tree tossing lightly on the surface
of a circular pool.
They should suggest eddying pools, twisting
islets or floating duckweed at the time of the world's creation. They
should be like scudding clouds in a clear blue sky and should
occasionally overlap like scales on fish. They should be like copper
cash, green with age, churned by the rapids of a river, or dispose
themselves as chrysanthemum petals would, promiscuously cast on a
goblet's stand.
To achieve the froth called po, heat the
remaining water until it boils. Then the fine, light flowery froth will
gather and become as silvery and white as drifted snow.
The poem
on tea speaks of froth as flaming brilliance, and says that it must be
as lustrous as the snowdrift and as sumptuous as the spring lotus.
When
you draw off the water during the first boil, allow it to stand. If on
the surface of the froth there is a lining -like a black cloud, do not
drink it, for the flavor will be untrue.
The first cup should
have a haunting flavor, strange and lasting. There are those who allow
it to continue simmering to nourish the elegance and retain the froth
even through a first, second and third cup. After the third cup, one
should not drink more than a fourth or fifth cup unless he is very
thirsty.
At every brewing, one pint of water should be used for
five cups of tea. Take the tea cups one after the other so that the
heavy impurities will remain at the bottom and the choicest froths
float across the top like patches of thin ice. Then the delicate
virtues of the tea will be retained throughout. But when you drink it,
sip only. Otherwise, you will dissipate the flavor.
Moderation
is the very essence of tea. Tea does not lend itself to extravagance.
If a tea is insipid and bland, it will lose its flavor before even half
a cup has disappeared. How much more so in the case of extravagance in
its use. The vibrancy will fade from the color and the perfection of
its fragrance will melt away.
When tea has a sweet flavor, it
may be called chic. If it is less than sweet and of a bitter or strong
taste, it is called ch'uan. If it is bitter or strong when sipped but
sweet when swallowed, it is called cha.
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